How to Choose the Perfect Colored Diamond: A Buyer's Checklist

In the jewelry industry, when the term “Diamond” is used, it refers to traditional diamonds with no “Color.” These diamonds could be slightly yellowish to brownish in terms of the presence of color at all. But did you know that diamonds also come in other colors of the rainbow, which we call fancy-colored diamonds?

Unlike traditional "white" diamonds, colored diamonds are prized for their unique appeal, shades, and individuality. That is why picking the perfect colored diamond requires an in-depth understanding of several factors. These include:

• Diamond color grading, 
• Rarity, 
• Hues, saturation, and tone
• Fanciness
• Certification, 
• Clarity, cut and carat weight, and more. 

In this guide, we will carefully break down everything you need to know about colored diamonds. This will enable you to make a better decision and understand pricing and which colored diamond is best for you.

1. Understanding Colored Diamonds

Here is an in-depth discussion of colored diamonds. 

1.1 What Are Colored Diamonds?

Generally, diamond color is measured by diamond color grading for colorless/white diamonds. The D-Z color scale determines this grade. 

Here, 

• D-F is determined as Colorless.
• G-J is Near Colorless.
• K-M is Faint.
• N-R is very light.
• S-Z is Light. 

But when we say colored diamonds, it means fancy colored diamonds. 

Colored diamonds exhibit hues other than the classic white or clear appearance. The hues are beyond the Z color scale- fancy yellow, brown, or any other color face-up. 

However, “Fancy” isn’t an official term. But this term is used in the gem and jewelry industry to indicate colored diamonds beyond the D-Z color scale. 

Such fancy and vivid-colored diamonds are extremely rare. To be exact, they are 1 in every 10,000 diamonds, which is 0.01% of all diamonds. Where colorless diamonds are valued for their absence of color (clarity) and brilliance, fancy-colored diamonds are valued for diverse colors (hue, saturation, and tone).

Their visual appeal and uniqueness make them highly coveted by both casual buyers and seasoned collectors.

1.2. Natural Vs. Treated Vs. Synthetic Colored Diamonds

Colored diamonds are found in different categories. They are natural, treated, and synthetic. 

1.2.1. Natural Colored Diamonds

Natural colored diamonds are formed under specific geological conditions. This happens in the deep of the Earth’s crust over millions of years. These diamonds are rare, especially in vibrant hues like saturated pink, red, green, and blue. 

Trace elements or structural irregularities under the Earth interact with carbon atoms during their formation. 

For example:

• Boron creates blue diamonds. They are formed in the deepest of the earth’s interior. 
• Nitrogen results in yellow diamonds.
• Radiation exposure leads to green diamonds.

These trace elements and irregularities give colored diamonds their captivating appearance. As a result, they stand out in the jewelry market.

• Argyle pink diamonds, sourced from the Argyle Mine in Australia. They are among the rarest and most valuable pink diamonds globally. Besides, a pink diamond named Pink Star weighed 59.60 carats and auctioned for $71.2 million. This is the most expensive pink diamond ever. 
• Blue diamonds, like the famous Hope Diamond, owe their stunning color to boron impurities. It is considered the most famous gem in the world. 

Natural diamonds cost a premium price due to their authenticity, rarity, and mining difficulty.

1.2.2. Treated Colored Diamonds

Treated diamonds are those that go through different processes to improve their color and clarity. Different types of diamond treatments are used to achieve the desired colors, such as: 

• Irradiation: 

Irradiation is the process of exposing diamonds to the sources of radiation. The radiation changes the color of the diamonds. 

For diamonds, neutron and electron radiation are the main irradiation sources. With these types, different type of colors can be obtained, including-

• Black
• Green
• Blue-green
• Orange
• Deep yellow
• Pink
• Red, etc. 

Sometimes, heating treatment is combined with irradiation to achieve the ultimate result. This is called “combination treatment.”

• Surface Coating

Sometimes, color agents are applied to the back of the diamonds (girdle). As a result, the applied color is shown face-up. This process is also called “backing.”

Thin film coatings and permanent ink markers are also used to coat the surface of the diamonds to change their color.

• High-Pressure High-Temperature (HPHT) 

The name of the treatment explains itself. In HPHT treatment, diamonds are heated at high temperatures. During the temperature treatment, diamonds are confined under high pressure. 

The HPHT process can be used to remove or reduce the color. It can also be used to transform colors:

• from brown to yellow
• Brown to orangy yellow 
• Brown to yellowish green or 
• Brown to blue

While these diamonds offer a more affordable alternative to natural ones, there are some trade-offs:

• Advantages: Treated color diamonds are more affordable than natural ones. You will find a wide range of colors.
• Disadvantages: They have lower resale value and concerns about durability.
  
  
  
  

1.2.3. Synthetic Colored Diamonds

Synthetic diamonds are also known as lab-grown colored diamonds. They are created in controlled environments using advanced technology. These diamonds have grown in popularity due to their affordability and ethical appeal. 

Being grown in the lab, they still hold the characteristics of their natural counterparts. 

Synthetic-colored diamonds are made through chemical vapor deposition (CVD) method. Diamonds are grown in a vacuum chamber during this process. 

The HPHT method is also used to form synthetic-colored diamonds. Melt flux dissolves carbon at higher temperatures and higher pressures. This then forms the diamond on the diamond seed crystal. 

Key benefits of synthetic colored diamonds include:

• Lower environmental impact compared to natural mining.
• Availability in a variety of vibrant colors.

However, synthetic diamonds are generally less valuable than their natural counterparts. This applies especially in the resale market. So, if the budget is an issue, only then should you go for synthetic-colored diamonds.  

2. Factors to Consider to Choose Perfect Colored Diamonds

If you want to have your desired colored diamonds, here are the aspects you should consider. We have discussed the factors in-depth so that you can make an informed decision. 

2.1. Colored Diamonds’ Color Grading and Fanciness

Colored diamonds derive their beauty and value from three primary color attributes: hue, saturation, and tone. 

• Hue: Diamond hue refers to the primary color of the diamond (e.g., red, blue, pink). It can include secondary hues that influence its appearance.
• Saturation: This measures the vibrancy or intensity of the color. Diamonds with strong saturation are more valuable.
• Tone: Tone describes how light or dark a diamond’s color appears, regardless of its saturation. Both light and dark tones can impact the diamond’s overall appearance. An optimal tone ensures that the color remains vibrant without appearing too pale or too dark.

Compared to colorless diamonds, diamonds with noticeable hues of other colors are considered fancy-colored diamonds.

Even if they have weak saturations and light tones and show up the color face-up, they qualify as colored diamonds. 

Based on the combination of hue, saturation, and tone, the GIA classifies fancy diamonds into categories such as:

• Fancy Vivid: These diamonds have the highest level of color intensity. Also, they are the most sought-after diamonds. For example:

               1. Vivid yellow diamonds are known for their striking brightness.

               2. Vivid pink diamonds, often associated with the Argyle Mine, are extremely rare and valuable.

• Fancy Intense: Slightly less saturated than Fancy Vivid diamonds. These are ideal for buyers seeking bold colors at a more affordable price point.
• Fancy Deep: These diamonds have rich, highly saturated colors with a darker tone than Fancy Vivid or Fancy Intense. Their deep hues create a dramatic look, making them desirable in rare colors like blue, pink, and red.
• Fancy: These diamonds show a strong and well-defined color presence. Though, they are not as deep as Fancy Intense. They are highly desirable for their noticeable hue while remaining more budget-friendly than the top two grades.
• Fancy Light: These diamonds have a subtle yet noticeable color. This makes them a budget-friendly option for luxury jewelry.
• Light: Diamonds in this grade display a gentle color presence. This is more prominent than Very Light but not as strong as Fancy grades. These are often appreciated for their subtle charm and affordability.
• Very Light: These diamonds have a faint tint of color that is visible but not intense. While they may not be as vivid as higher fancy grades, they can still offer a unique aesthetic appeal at a lower cost.
• Faint: The lowest level of color intensity. Faint diamonds have a barely perceptible hint of color. These diamonds often appear almost colorless and are considered the transition between traditional colorless diamonds and fancy-colored diamonds.
  
  
  

2.1.1. How Hue Influences the Fanciness

• A blue diamond with a greenish tint (e.g., the famous “Ocean Dream” diamond) has a modified hue. This makes it different from a pure blue diamond like the Hope Diamond.
• Pink diamonds often contain subtle orange, purple, or brown undertones. These affect both their rarity and price.

💡 Buyer Tip: When selecting a colored diamond, consider whether secondary hues enhance or dilute the beauty of the primary color. Some combinations (like purplish-pink) can increase value. Others (like brownish-yellow) may lower desirability.

2.1.2. How Saturation Influences the Fanciness

• A Fancy Light Blue diamond has medium saturation, making the blue noticeable but not intense.
• A Fancy Vivid Blue diamond, such as the Blue Moon Diamond (sold for $48.5 million), has exceptionally high saturation. This results in an electrifying, deep color.
• Lower saturation levels in diamonds (such as Faint or Light grades) may appear more like a subtle tint rather than a strong color presence.

💡 Buyer Tip: If you desire a diamond with striking, eye-catching color, look for those with Fancy Intense or Fancy Vivid grades. They have the richest saturation levels.

2.1.3. How Diamond Tone Influences the Fanciness

• A Fancy Vivid Yellow Diamond with a medium tone (not too light, not too dark, about 20%) will exhibit a bright and glowing appearance. This makes the diamond highly valuable.
• A Fancy Brown Diamond with an overly dark tone might appear muddy, reducing its visual appeal.
• Fancy Light Diamonds, such as some champagne-colored diamonds, may have a tone so light that they appear pastel-like. This will affect their grade.

💡 Buyer Tip: The best diamonds have a tone that enriches the color’s visibility while maintaining clarity and brilliance.

Here is a summary of fancy color grades based on the saturation and tone of the diamond color. 

2.2. How Rarity Increases the Colored Diamonds’ Value

Rarity is one of the most significant factors in determining the value of colored diamonds. The rarer a diamond’s color, the more desirable and valuable it becomes. 

Some of the rarest and most expensive colored diamonds include natural red, blue, green, pink, and purple diamonds. These command astronomical prices due to their limited supply and exceptional visual appeal.

Why Rarity Affects Value

• Limited Availability: Some color grades, such as Fancy Vivid Red or Fancy Deep Green, occur in nature at an extraordinary rarity level. They are available with only a handful of examples known worldwide.
• Market Demand: Collectors and investors compete for the rarest colored diamonds. This drives prices to record-breaking levels at auctions.
• Size & Clarity: The combination of rarity and gem quality—such as the clarity and size of the diamond—further enriches its desirability.
• Historical Significance: Many rare colored diamonds have notable histories. The history adds to their prestige and market value. For example, Hope Diamond’s known history dates back to the year 1668, which makes it priceless. 

2.3. Diamond Clarity, Cut, and Carat Weight

• Diamond Clarity

Diamond clarity is a less critical aspect to consider when choosing a colored diamond. Because color is the primary attribute that sets the value. However, even diamonds with much inclusion can be valued highly if they show attractive face-up color. 

But if many inclusions pose a threat that the gem can compromise its durability, this will lower the diamond’s value. So, you should assess the clarity that assures the overall quality of the diamond. 

• Diamond Cut

The diamond cut plays a vital role to enrich the brilliance and color intensity in diamonds.

Larger diamonds, or diamonds with deeper pavilions, allow more light to travel. These help to create richer and more intense colors. 

Shapes like radiant and cushion cuts have deeper pavilions. They are particularly effective for colored diamonds.

• Diamond Carat Weight

Carat weight affects both the price and visual impact of the diamond. Larger colored diamonds are rare. For example, among 1000 GIA-graded pink diamonds between 2008 and 2016, 83% weighed less than 1 carat. 

Larger colored diamonds command premium prices.

2.4. Fluorescence in Colored Diamonds

Diamond Fluorescence refers to a diamond’s reaction to UV light. When exposed to UV light, it generally emits a visible glow- usually blue. This effect occurs due to trace amounts of elements like boron or nitrogen within the diamond’s structure.

Too much fluorescence can diminish the color appearance by creating milky or hazy. But optimal fluorescence can improve the diamond’s appearance. 

Fluorescence doesn’t impact the diamond’s durability. But excessive diamond fluorescence can impact the value. 

It can be a good value choice if the fluorescence improves the diamond’s appearance and does not cause haziness.

2.5. Determining the Origin and Investment Potential

• Diamond Origin

The origin of a diamond, such as the Argyle Mine for pink diamonds, adds to its value and allure. Buyers should also consider ethical sourcing.

• Colored Diamonds as an Investment

Rare colors like red, pink, and blue offer significant diamond investment potential due to their scarcity and demand. They have high resale value. So, if you want to invest in jewelry for resale, colored diamonds are a great option. 

2.6. Diamond Certifications

Diamond certification guarantees the authenticity of a diamond’s color and origin. They also guarantee any treatments it may have undergone. 

You should always insist on the certification of colored diamonds to verify quality. Colored diamond certification guarantees:

• Color Authenticity – Determines if the color is natural or artificially enhanced through treatments.
• Color Grade – Evaluates hue, tone, and saturation to assign grades from Faint to Fancy Vivid.
• Origin Verification – Some labs, like GIA and SSEF, specialize in tracing diamonds to their source (e.g., Argyle Mine, Golconda, Catoca, Jwaneng Diamond Mine).
• Treatments & Enhancements – Checks for procedures like HPHT, irradiation, and coating that may alter the diamond’s natural color.
• Carat Weight & Proportions – Measures precise weight and dimensions.
• Clarity Grading – Examines inclusions and internal characteristics.
• Fluorescence & Light Performance – Analyzes how the diamond reacts to UV light and its optical brilliance.

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) is the most well-known authority in diamond grading. However, several other reputable certification bodies also evaluate and certify colored diamonds.

Some popular ones, along with GIA itself:

• Gemological Institute of America (GIA)

         1. GIA diamond grading is the most globally recognized authority in diamond certification.

         2. Assesses colored diamonds based on hue, tone, and saturation to determine their color grade (e.g., Fancy Light, Fancy Intense, Fancy Vivid, etc.).

• International Gemological Institute (IGI)

          1. One of the largest independent gem labs worldwide, widely used in Europe and Asia.

• Hoge Raad voor Diamant (HRD Antwerp)

          1. A respected European-based certification body.

• Swiss Gemmological Institute (SSEF)

          1. Specializes in high-end and rare-colored diamonds.

          2. Used frequently by auction houses like Christie’s and Sotheby’s for certifying historically significant diamonds.

3. Popular Colored Diamonds and Their Characteristics

Among colored diamonds, each color carries distinct characteristics, origins, and values that make them truly unique. 

From fiery reds to tranquil blues, here’s a closer look at some of the most popular diamond colors and what sets them apart.

3.1. Pink Diamonds

Pink diamonds are particularly popular in Australia. The iconic Argyle Mine in Australia has been the primary global source for these gems. The mine’s closure in November 2020 has further advanced the rarity and value of pink diamonds.

• Formation: Pink diamonds are thought to derive their color from intense geological pressure. This causes distortions in the crystal lattice.
• Argyle Legacy: The Argyle Mine produced over 95% of the world’s pink diamonds, though the majority were small in size. Larger stones with strong color saturation are exceedingly rare.
• Price Factors: Pink diamonds range from faint blush tones to vivid bubblegum hues with stronger colors. These fetch significantly higher prices. Argyle-certified pink diamonds often come with premium price tags due to their historical significance.

Notable Example of Rare Pink Diamond

• The Pink Star Diamond: At 59.60 carats, this flawless Fancy Vivid pink diamond set a world record. It was sold at auction for $71.2 million at Sotheby’s in 2017. This makes it one of the most expensive gemstones ever sold. [Source: Sotheby’s]

3.2. Red Diamonds

Red diamonds are among the rarest and most coveted gemstones in the world. Their stunning, vibrant red hues result from unique molecular lattice distortions during their formation. 

Unlike other colored diamonds, red diamonds owe their color not to trace elements like nitrogen or boron but to structural irregularities that absorb light differently.

• Rarity and Value: Red diamonds are so scarce that only a handful of pure red diamonds have ever been discovered. Most weigh less than one carat, and prices can exceed millions of dollars per carat.
• Market Appeal: Collectors and investors prize red diamonds for their rarity and exclusivity. These make them a top choice for those seeking unparalleled luxury.

Notable Example of Red Diamond

• The Hancock Red Diamond- It is a 0.95-carat red diamond, one of the rarest and most famous red diamonds. It was sold at $880,000 in 1987, the most expensive red diamond at that time. [Source: GIA]

3.3. Blue Diamonds

Blue diamonds exude sophistication and mystery, captivating audiences for centuries. Their enchanting hue results from trace amounts of boron within the diamond’s carbon structure.

• Rarity: Pure blue diamonds are extremely rare. And those with Fancy Vivid or Intense color grades command astronomical prices.
• Market Appeal: Blue diamonds are often associated with royalty and luxury. This appeals to those seeking a statement piece with timeless allure.

Famous Blue Diamond Example

• The Hope Diamond (Blue Diamond) – Weighing 45.52 carats, this deep blue diamond is one of the most famous gems in the world. Its exceptional color and mysterious history have made it a prized artifact. This piece of true gem is housed in the Smithsonian Institution. [Source: Smithsonian]

3.4. Green Diamonds

Green diamonds owe their green hue to natural radiation exposure that alters the diamond’s crystal structure. This process occurs over millions of years and results in shades ranging from pale mint to deep emerald.

• Unique Formation: The color is typically confined to the diamond’s surface. This requires precise cutting to preserve its hue.
• Rarity and Value: Pure green diamonds are extremely rare. Even slight secondary hues, such as yellowish-green, can significantly affect the value.

Famous Green Diamond Example

• The Aurora Green Diamond – A stunning 5.03-carat Fancy Vivid green diamond. It is one of the rarest green diamonds in the world. It was sold for HKD 130,040,000 ($16.8 million at that time) at auction in 2016, setting a record for green diamonds. [Source: Christie’s]

3.5. Yellow Diamonds

Yellow diamonds are often called “canary diamonds.” They are one of the most accessible options in the colored diamond market. Their sunny hue comes from nitrogen atoms impurities that absorb blue light.

• Affordability: High-quality yellow diamonds, especially Fancy Vivid varieties, can be expensive. But they are generally more affordable than red, pink, or blue diamonds.
• Versatility: Their warm, golden tones pair well with various metals, from platinum to rose gold. This makes them a versatile choice for jewelry.

Famous Yellow Diamond Example

• Graff Vivid Yellow Diamond: It is a 100.09-carat cushion-modified Brilliant Fancy Vivid Yellow diamond. It is one of the most famous yellow diamonds, sold at 14,501,000 CHF ($16.8 million at that time) in 2014. The value of the diamond highlights the potential for these gems to make a bold statement. [Source: Sotheby’s]

3.6. Other Rare Diamonds

Beyond the popular red, pink, blue, yellow, and green diamonds, other rare varieties also capture the imagination of collectors:

• Black Diamonds: Black diamonds are also known as “carbonado.” They derive their unique appearance from numerous inclusions or graphite within the stone. They are often used in bold, modern jewelry designs.
• Brown Diamonds: Brown diamonds are also known as “champagne” or “cognac” diamonds. You will find them among the most affordable options in the colored diamond category. Their warm, earthy tones make them an appealing choice for casual luxury.
• Orange Diamonds: Pure orange diamonds are also called “pumpkin diamonds.” They are exceptionally rare. Their fiery color results from nitrogen atoms arranged in a specific configuration.
  
  
  

Final Thoughts

Choosing the perfect colored diamonds is a blend of art, taste, luxury, and science. You can choose the right colored diamonds by understanding their color grading, fanciness, rarity, and other factors. 

Whether for personal enjoyment or as an investment, colored diamonds offer unparalleled beauty and exclusivity. You can trust Saratti to find the best-colored diamonds you desire. At Saratti, we offer astonishing and luxurious colored diamonds that align with your personal choice or future investment.