Marquise Cut Gemstones

What Is a Loose Gemstone?

A loose gemstone is the beginning of a jewel before the metal is drawn around it. At SARATTI, the stone is never treated as a simple centrepiece or inventory item. It is studied first for colour, then for cut, clarity, proportion, treatment, origin, certificate details, and the way it responds to light. These details decide whether a gemstone should be kept loose, collected, certified further, or shaped into a ring, pendant, necklace, bracelet, or pair of earrings.

Natural Gemstone Families

Natural gemstones do not follow one standard of beauty. A sapphire may be admired for velvety blue depth, a ruby for red saturation and internal glow, an emerald for its green life and natural jardin, and a Paraiba tourmaline for electric blue-green colour. Aquamarine is often chosen for calm clarity and oceanic light. Tanzanite is loved for blue-violet movement. Spinel can appear in red, pink, lavender, grey, purple, and vivid cobalt-like tones. Tourmaline ranges from soft pink and green to bi-colour and copper-bearing neon material. Topaz may be colourless, blue, golden, pink, or imperial in tone. Garnet includes far more than deep red, with tsavorite green, spessartine orange, rhodolite purple-red, and other varieties. Opal is read through play-of-colour, body tone, pattern, and stability. Diamonds, whether colourless or fancy coloured, have their own language of colour, clarity, cut, carat weight, fluorescence, and report.

Colour in Coloured Gemstones

Colour is the first conversation in coloured gemstones. Hue, tone, saturation, colour zoning, undertone, and light behaviour all affect how a stone is understood. A gemstone may look vivid in one photograph and softer in daylight. Another may appear quiet at first, then show depth when moved. SARATTI looks for colour with presence — not only intensity, but balance.

For blue gemstones, this may mean the calm strength of sapphire, the pale clarity of aquamarine, the violet movement of tanzanite, or the neon life of Paraiba tourmaline. For green gemstones, it may mean the garden-like character of emerald, the brightness of tsavorite, or the refined depth of green tourmaline. For red and pink gemstones, ruby, spinel, sapphire, tourmaline, garnet, and morganite each carry colour in a different way.

Cut, Shape & Proportion

Cut is more than shape. Oval, cushion, emerald cut, pear, round, marquise, radiant, octagonal, trillion, heart, and cabochon gemstones all behave differently once set. A well-cut gemstone should carry light with intention. Depth, table size, symmetry, outline, windowing, extinction, brilliance, and face-up spread all affect how the stone appears on the hand or against the skin. Some gemstones are cut to protect colour. Some are cut to preserve weight. Some are cut to soften inclusions or improve brilliance. SARATTI considers how the cut will translate into the final jewel, not only how the gemstone looks while loose.

Clarity & Natural Inclusions

Clarity must be understood according to the gemstone. A diamond clarity scale cannot be applied blindly to emerald, ruby, sapphire, opal, tourmaline, or aquamarine. Emeralds are expected to show natural internal features, often described as jardin. Sapphires and rubies may show silk, crystals, fingerprints, zoning, or healed fissures. Aquamarines and tanzanites are often expected to appear cleaner to the eye. Opals are judged through body tone, play-of-colour, pattern, and stability rather than faceted brilliance. A natural inclusion is not always a flaw. Sometimes it is part of the stone’s identity. What matters is whether it affects beauty, durability, transparency, or value.

Treatment, Origin & Disclosure

Treatment is one of the most important parts of gemstone knowledge. Many natural gemstones are treated in accepted ways. Sapphire and ruby may be heated. Emeralds are commonly treated with oil or resin to improve apparent clarity. Blue topaz is usually treated to achieve its colour. Some opals may be smoked or stabilised. Treatment does not automatically make a gemstone undesirable, but it must be understood because it affects value, care, and long-term confidence. Where treatment is known, SARATTI aims to state it clearly. Where a report is available, the report helps support the gemstone’s identity and important details.

Origin can also influence desirability, especially for certain gemstones. Burmese rubies, Colombian emeralds, Kashmir sapphires, Ceylon sapphires, Mozambique rubies, Zambian emeralds, Madagascar sapphires, Brazilian Paraiba tourmalines, and Tanzanian tanzanites each carry different market associations. Origin alone does not make a gemstone beautiful. Colour, cut, clarity, carat weight, treatment, and report must still be considered. A fine stone is never judged by one word only.

Certificates & Laboratory Reports

Certification gives structure to the conversation. Independent laboratories such as GIA, GUILD, AIGS, CGRL, GRS, and GRC may identify gemstone type, natural origin, treatment indications, measurements, weight, and sometimes geographic origin, depending on the stone and report type. Not every gemstone requires the same level of reporting, and not every report says the same thing. For important stones, SARATTI can help review the available documentation or arrange recertification where appropriate.

From Loose Stone to Bespoke Jewelry

A loose gemstone may be chosen for collecting, gifting, investment interest, birthstone meaning, or bespoke jewelry. Some clients begin with a colour. Some begin with a birth month. Some begin with a design idea. Others begin with a certificate, an origin, or a stone they have been searching for privately. Once the gemstone is chosen, SARATTI can design around its structure — protecting delicate corners, balancing height, choosing the right metal colour, and shaping the final ring, pendant, necklace, bracelet, or earrings around the stone itself.

The best gemstone is not always the largest. It is the one whose colour, cut, clarity, treatment, report, and presence make sense together.