With their distinct geometric profile and vintage appeal, the Asscher-cut diamonds stand out in the jewelry world. It was created in 1902 by Joseph Asscher of the Royal Asscher Diamond Company in Amsterdam. This stunning cut features a square shape with cropped corners and a unique step-cut faceting pattern. Its popularity soared during the Art Deco period of the 1920s. It has experienced a resurgence in recent years. Diamond enthusiasts cherish this cut for its architectural beauty and its hall-of-mirrors effect. It can also showcase exceptional clarity.
If you are looking to purchase an Asscher-cut diamond, you should be concerned with the following:
- Cut quality and proportions - Critical for the signature mirror effect
- Clarity Considerations - Step cuts reveal inclusions more than brilliant cuts
- Color Selection - How color appears in step-cut faceting
- Carat weight and size appearance - Asscher cuts face up smaller than round diamonds
- Setting styles that complement Asscher diamonds - Best mounting options to showcase the cut
- Certification and authenticity - Ensuring you get a true Asscher cut
- Price comparison - Value relative to other diamond shapes
In this guide, we will discuss the essential elements of choosing the perfect Asscher-cut diamond. This will help you make smart buying decisions that show this beauty's unique character and brilliance.
The Distinct Geometry of Asscher Diamonds
Asscher-cut diamonds have a unique architecture that makes them distinct from diamond shapes in the market. The cut showcases a square outline with uniquely cropped corners. This gives it an octagonal appearance when viewed from above. This geometric precision creates a diamond with strong lines and impeccable symmetry.
What truly sets the Asscher cut apart lies in its facets. Unlike brilliant cuts that increase sparkle through many triangular facets. Asscher diamonds use a step-cut faceting pattern. This consists of parallel facets that resemble a series of concentric squares. They descend towards the diamond’s center, creating a fascinating layered effect. The standard Asscher cut typically has 58 facets, the same as round brilliant diamonds. The facets are arranged in a different configuration that produces their signature visual effect.
The most stunning feature of the Asscher diamond is the “windmill pattern” visible when looking directly into the table. This unique formation appears when the pavilion facets meet, creating lines. This creates lines that radiate from the center like the blades of a windmill. Diamond experts often examine this pattern to assess the cut quality.
A perfectly executed Asscher displays a windmill with clear, straight lines. The pavilion facets of an Asscher cut create what is known as the “hall of mirrors” effect.
This optical phenomenon produces broad flashes of light rather than what you see in brilliant cuts. When you rotate an Asscher diamond under light, you will have bands of shadow and light. These move in an orderly, hypnotic pattern. According to research by the GIA, this light performance results from the precise angles of the step facets. They reflect light differently from brilliant cuts.
Data from leading diamond retailers shows that Asscher cuts have a depth percentage. Ranging from 61% to 68%, with the ideal being around 65%. This depth ratio, combined with the step-cut faceting, creates the diamond optical faceting. Also, while maintaining structural integrity. The calculated precision behind this simple geometric shape is revelatory. It shows why the Asscher cut needs skilled master diamond cutters. This is why perfectly executed examples command premium prices in the market.
Understanding Asscher Cut Grading Parameters
Choosing an exceptional Asscher cut diamond needs a lot of careful attention to specific proportions. As well as measurements that heavily impact its value and beauty. IGI and other gem labs grade the cut quality of round diamonds on a scale of Poor to Excellent. They don’t provide official cut grades for fancy shapes like the Asscher.
Understanding the technical parameters is more crucial for making informed purchasing decisions. Among the most important measurements for Asscher diamonds is the length-to-width ratio. The ideal ratio is between the ranges of 1.00 and 1.75. This means the diamond should appear almost perfectly square when viewed from above.
Research conducted by diamond analysts found that Asscher diamonds with ratios above 1.05 begin to look rectangular. This diminishes the classic appeal of the Asscher cut. Diamonds within the ideal range of 1.00-1.05 fetch higher prices than those with less favorable proportions. This indicates a market preference for proper geometric symmetry. When examining a purchase, ask for exact length and width measurements rather than assessing it visually only. This is because even tiny deviations can affect appearance.
Depth percentage also plays a very important role in light performance. Depth percentage is calculated by dividing the diamond’s height from the table to the culet by its average width. For Asscher-cut diamonds, the recommended depth percentage falls between 61% and 68%. 64%-66% is considered optimal by many experts. Diamonds within this range manage light return and keep their structure. According to a 2023 analysis, Asscher cuts with depths below 60% appear too shallow. They often exhibit a “windowed” effect where the light passes through rather than reflecting. But, those exceeding 70% appear very wavy and dark with low visual appeal.
Table size also influences the diamond’s appearance and light performance. Table size is the percentage of the diamond's width. For Asscher cuts, industry experts recommend tables between 60% and 69%. IGI reports that tables within this range optimize the balance between the unique step-cut facet pattern and light return. Larger tables can reduce the appearance of the square facets that create the “hall-of-mirrors” effect. Smaller tables will make the diamond appear unnecessarily closed or dark.
Symmetry holds a lot more importance for step-cut diamonds than brilliant cuts. The parallel facets and geometric precision of an Asccher cut are very important. It means even minor symmetry flaws become readily apparent to the naked eye.
This price difference exceeds that seen in brilliant-cut diamonds. With brilliants, symmetry imperfections are masked by the faceting pattern.
The crown height should ideally comprise about 15-17% of the diamond's total depth. The crown height is the part above the girdle. This proportion creates the right platform for displaying the step-cut facets. It also adds to the diamond's presence.
When evaluating Asscher diamonds, discerning buyers request ASET (Angular Spectrum Evaluation Tool) images. These images assess light performance beyond traditional grading parameters. These tools also reveal how effectively the diamond returns and captures light. This means stones with superior optical efficiency can be easily identified. The growing availability of these advanced tools through online retailers has evolved a lot. This empowers consumers to make sophisticated evaluations when buying these diamonds.
Clarity Considerations for Asscher Diamonds
When you go shopping for an Asscher-cut diamond, pay a lot of attention to clarity. It becomes really important. Brilliant-cut diamonds can hide small flaws within their many facets. Asscher cuts reveal imperfections more readily. Think of an Asscher diamond as a window. Any marks or smudges will be easier to spot.
This clarity chart should help you understand the distinctions between the grades.
Most diamond experts recommend VS2 clarity or higher for Asscher-cut diamonds.
So what does this mean for you? VS2 (Very Slightly Included 2) diamonds have minor imperfections that are barely visible to the naked eye. They can be spotted under 10x magnification. Customers who purchase Asscher diamonds with clarity below VS2 are more dissatisfied. Inclusions are more visible.
What would you look for when examining clarity? Focus on where inclusions are located. Inclusions near the core of the diamond are more noticeable than those positioned toward the edges. Yes, that's right. Diamond pricing data indicates that centrally located inclusions can affect the diamond value by up to 15%. That is in comparison to similarly graded stones with peripherally located inclusions.
Now, if a budget becomes a concern, look for what we call “eye-clean” diamonds. These are stones where imperfections are not visible to the naked eye. Even if they're present under magnification. In Asscher cuts, you can find eye-clean diamonds in the SI1 clarity range. Especially if the inclusions are white rather than black and positioned near the edges.
Let’s give you a helpful strategy. Review actual photos or videos of specific diamonds rather than relying only on clarity grades. Many online retailers like Saratti offer high-resolution imaging. This allows you to see exactly what you’re getting. These visual tools help as opposed to buying on certification alone.
If you have to choose between two similarly priced stones, do this. Always opt for the one with crystal inclusions rather than dark spots. We previously talked about the table and how important it is. Its size also affects how visible inclusions will be. Diamonds with larger tables make imperfections more apparent. This is because you are seeing more of the diamond's interior. If you are considering a lower clarity grade, go for cuts with tables in the 62-62% range.
When examining certification reports, pay a lot of attention to the clarity part. That is the diagram showing the location and type of inclusions. For Asscher diamonds, inclusions under the table facet are the most problematic. This is because they are visible through what is the “window” of your diamond.
Inclusions under the table in step-cut diamonds were rated as twice as distracting to viewers. This is in comparison to similar inclusions in brilliant cuts.
Please remember that lighting conditions affect the visibility of inclusions. Fluorescent lighting often makes inclusions more apparent than incandescent lighting. When possible, examine your Asscher diamond under different lighting before making a decision.
Color Selection for Asscher Cut Diamonds
Choosing the right color grade for your Asscher cut diamond greatly affects both its price and appearance. Brilliant cuts can mask slight color with their sparkle. Asscher diamonds show color more readily due to their step-cut design.
This color chart should help you understand the distinctions between the grades.
For most people shopping for an Asscher diamond, color grades in the G-J range are the best. They offer the best balance for appearance and value. These diamonds appear colorless to the naked eye. Especially when set in platinum and white gold.
A 2024 consumer study found something interesting when comparing G and I colored Asscher diamonds side by side. 72% of participants could spot the difference. Compared to 31% who could differentiate the same color grades in round brilliants.
The choice of setting also heavily impacts how the diamond’s color appears. When setting an Asscher diamond in rose or yellow gold, you can go down in color. A J or K color is perfect for the warm-toned metal that will make the diamond appear whiter by comparison. This pairing can save you about 25-30% compared to a higher color grade. And it will still look beautiful.
For larger Asscher diamonds that are over 2 carats, consider going up one color grade from a smaller stone. Color becomes more visible as diamond size increases. Fluorescence can sometimes help diamonds with lower color grades appear whiter. Lower color grades appear whiter. About 30% of diamonds have some degree of fluorescence, most commonly blue. If you are looking at an I or J color Asscher diamond, one with medium blue fluorescence might appear more colorless in daylight. Even better, fluorescent diamonds usually cost 5-10% less than fluorescent ones of the same grade.
Many diamond shoppers get caught up in certificate grades. Though what matters is how the diamond looks to you. Always try to view diamonds in person or through high-quality videos before making a decision.
If you are on a budget, consider cutting quality over high color grades. A well-proportioned Asscher diamond with ideal symmetry in a G or I color. That will look more impressive than a poorly cut F color diamond. Price comparisons show that you can save about 20% by choosing a lower color. This could allow you to purchase a larger or better-cut stone.
For fancy-colored diamonds, Asscher cuts are very striking.
Yellow, cognac, and champagne diamonds look especially beautiful in their cut. The step-cut facets showcase the natural color depth rather than trying to increase sparkle. Colored diamonds command higher prices per carat than colored diamonds in other fancy shapes.
Another fascinating thing to note. Lighting conditions affect how diamond color appears. Diamonds will look whiter in outdoor sunlight or under LED lights. Incandescent bulbs can make them appear more yellow. When examining diamonds, ask to see them under different lighting conditions. This will help you get a complete picture of how they will look in daily wear.
The Royal Asscher Distinction
When exploring Asscher cut diamonds, you’ll hear the term “Royal Asscher”. This is not just clever marketing. It represents a patented, specific diamond cut. One with unique features and a fascinating history that sets it apart from other Asscher cuts.
The Royal Asscher Diamond Company created the original Asscher cut in 1902. It was founded in 1854 in Amsterdam.
The company gained fame when Joseph Asscher cleaved the largest diamond ever discovered. The jaw-dropping 3,106-carat Cullinan Diamond was cleaved into nine major stones in 1908. This included the 530.2-carat Great Star of Africa that now sits in the British Crown Jewels.
In 2001, the company introduced the Royal Asscher Cut, which is an enhanced version of their design. The most important difference is the facet count. While the classic Asscher cut has 58 facets, the Royal has 74 facets.
Doing a comparison of the two cuts, you will notice the Royal Asscher displaying more depth and dimension. Diamond experts at IGI note that the additional facets create smaller, more numerous reflections. Those give the Royal Asscher a different visual effect.
In 2001, the company introduced the Royal Asscher Cut, an enhanced version of their classic design. The most significant difference is the facet count. While traditional Asscher cuts have 58 facets, the Royal Asscher features 74 facets. "They dramatically increase light return and create a more intricate pattern of light and shadow."
The shape is also slightly different. Royal Asscher diamonds have higher crowns and larger table facets than classic Asscher cuts. This design choice creates a more dominant “hall of mirrors” that diamond lovers adore. Consumer studies show that when it is viewed from above, more people prefer the Royal Asscher’s look. Price-wise, you will pay a premium of 15-20% for a Royal Asscher. In comparison to a traditional Asscher. This difference reflects both the patented design and the company's standards. According to market data from 2024, the average price per carat for a 1-carat G VS2 Royal Asscher is. That will be about 7200$ compared to $6000 for a standard Asscher with the same features. 
Is the higher price justified? That depends on what you value. Royal Asscher diamonds should meet strict standards that often go beyond those of gem labs. The company rejects a good number of diamonds that can qualify as suitable for cutting. They only select those with optimal optical properties for their cut.
Authentication matters when purchasing a Royal Asscher diamond. Every genuine stone comes with a Royal Asscher certificate that includes certification.
Authentic certification and laser inscriptions. The company maintains a verification system on its website. This allows you to check a diamond’s authenticity using its certificate number.
Aside from the original Royal Asscher Cut, the company has added other patented cuts. This includes the ;
- Royal Asscher Brilliant
- Royal Asscher Oval
Yet, most people refer to Royal Asscher diamonds when they are discussing the square cut with 74 facets. If you are considering getting a Royal Asscher diamond, note this. Availability can be limited compared to standard Asscher cuts. The company produces just about 750 Royal Asscher diamonds annually.
This limited number, as well as strict quality controls, adds to their higher pricing and exclusivity.
Whether the Royal Asscher premium price is worth it to you depends on you. Your budget and preferences. Some buyers find the increased light performance and historical meaning important. Some also prefer a larger standard Asscher diamond.
Setting Styles That Compliment Asscher Diamonds
It is very critical to choose the right setting for your Asscher cut. It can dramatically upgrade its uniqueness and overall appeal. The setting secures the diamond. It also plays a crucial role in highlighting its unique geometric beauty. Let’s explore the best settings for its architectural diamond cut.
Art Deco-inspired settings pair naturally with Asscher-cut diamonds. They create such a cohesive vintage aesthetic that many jewelry enthusiasts find incredible. This pairing makes a lot of historical sense. Asscher cuts became very popular during the 1920s and 30s. These settings typically feature clean lines and geometric patterns. They also feature small accent diamonds or colored gemstones arranged in symmetrical designs.
Popular Art Deco elements include milgrain, channel-set accent stones, and halos that echo the diamond’s shape. When set in Art Deco designs, they command higher prices than similar diamonds in other settings.
Solitaire settings offer a classic approach that lets your Asscher diamond take center stage. The clean, uncluttered design of a solitaire setting is perfect. Since it draws attention to the diamond's unique faceting pattern and geometric shape
Four or six-prong settings work very well.
Many experts recommend four prongs aligned with the corners. These will help enhance the diamond’s square appearance. The key with Asscher solitaires is to keep the prong work minute but firm. Look for knife-edge bands or split shank designs. These will complement the diamond's geometric nature. Almost 40% of Asscher cut engagement rings are in solitaire settings. It is a very popular choice among consumers.
Halo settings surround the center Asscher diamond with a ring of smaller diamonds.
This creates a border that increases the perceived size and adds a lot of sparkle. Square halos that mirror the shape of the Asscher cut will create a cohesive look. Round halos will give an interesting contrast between the outline and the angular stone. Halo settings have actually grown in popularity for Asscher diamonds.
Another setting to be considered is three-stone settings.
They complement Asscher diamonds beautifully. Especially when the side stones echo the angular theme. Popular companions include Baguette-cut diamonds, trapezoid diamonds, or smaller Asscher cuts. Their parallel lines will harmonize with the step-cut facets of the centre Asscher.
Bezel settings offer a modern, secure option that emphasizes the clean lines of Asscher diamonds.
In this setting style, a thin metal rim surrounds the entire perimeter of the diamond. Bezels can be very flattering for Asscer cuts because they follow and enhance the geometric outline.
This setting style provides excellent protection for the diamond's corners. The corners can be vulnerable to chipping in more exposed settings. If you want a more open appearance, consider a partial bezel that leaves the corners exposed. This will still provide substantial protection.
When selecting a metal for your Asscher diamond setting, consider the interaction of different metals with the color. White metals like White gold and Platinum create a seamless look with higher color grade diamonds(D-G). Yellow or Rose gold can complement the warm tones present in diamonds with lower color grades.
Light Performance and Sparkle
When shopping for an Asscher diamond, it is important to understand its unique light performance. This helps you appreciate what makes them special. Brilliant-cut diamonds dazzle with a lot of sparkle. Asscher cuts, however, deliver a different kind of visual magic. Asscher diamonds display “flashes” of light rather than the sparkle of brilliant cuts.
This means you will see more dramatic reflections as you move the diamond. Think of it like comparing a mirror’s reflection to a disco ball. Both are beautiful, but in completely different ways.
The step-cut faceting pattern of Asscher diamonds creates unique light and dark bands that move across the stone as you rotate it. This pattern looks like patterned flashes rather than random sparkles like that of brilliant cuts. Polish grade becomes particularly important for increasing an Asscher diamond’s light. The large, flat facets act like windows. Because of this, any imperfections in polish are more noticeable than in brilliant cuts.
You might wonder: Do Asscher diamonds sparkle enough? The answer depends on your requirements. In a side-by-side brightness test, Asscer cuts reflected about 25% less total light than round brilliants. On the other hand, participants described the Asscher’s light as “hypnotic” and “distinctive”. Compared to the “flashier” quality of brilliants.
Light conditions heavily affect how Asscher diamonds perform. These diamonds look best in directed light sources rather than diffused lighting. Under sunlight or spotlights, an Asscher’s step facets create dramatic contrast between dark and bright areas. Under fluorescent office lighting, they will appear less dynamic. When examining potential purchases, view the diamond under many conditions.
This will ensure you appreciate how it will look in daily settings. If you are seeking maximum light return from an Asscher cut. The Royal Asscher cut, with its 74 facets, offers enhanced performance. Additional facets increase overall brightness by about 15%. This improvement comes at a price premium of 15%, but many collectors consider it worthwhile.
Expert Tips for Purchasing Asscher Diamonds Online
Buying an Asscher-cut diamond online requires careful attention to details. Details that might not matter as much with other diamond shapes. Follow these expert recommendations to ensure you get a beautiful stone at a fair price:
- Insist on GIA or AGS certification. These two laboratories have the most consistent and reliable grading standards. This consistency becomes especially important for Asscher cuts, where color shows more readily.
- Request videos rather than relying on still images. Asscher diamonds reveal their true character when in motion, as light plays across their step facets.
- Look for symmetrical windmill patterns. When viewing the diamond from the top, the facets should form a perfect "windmill" pattern at the center.
- Verify actual measurements rather than relying on reported carat weight. Two 1-carat Asscher diamonds can appear quite different in size depending on their proportions. Diamonds with ideal depth percentages (61-68%) maximize face-up appearance for their weight.
- Pay attention to girdle thickness. Extremely thin girdles increase the risk of chipping, while extremely thick girdles add hidden weight. Look for certificates indicating "thin to medium" or "medium" girdle thickness. This gives you the best combination of durability and value.
- Consider slightly lower clarity grades for better value. Many VS2 and even some SI1 Asscher diamonds appear completely clean to the naked eye. Especially if inclusions are located near the edges rather than under the table.
- Compare prices across multiple retailers. Price differences for identical Asscher diamond specifications can vary by as much as 20% between retailers.
- Ask about return policies and inspection periods. Even with excellent images and videos, seeing an Asscher diamond in person is the better option. It can sometimes reveal characteristics that weren't apparent online. Most reputable online diamond retailers offer 30-day return policies. Some may charge restocking fees or limit returns in other ways.
Now, everything to know about Asscher cut diamonds has been outlined above. The unique step-cut facets and vintage appeal of the Asscher cut is why it is such a distinctive choice for engagement rings. Remember to work with a reputable dealer who can show you the difference between a well-cut and poorly-cut Asscher.
Understanding clarity and requirements, and how this cut displays color is essential. It helps you appreciate why this geometric diamond shape captivates modern couples seeking something truly special. Our expert gemologists and master artisans here at SARATTI specialize in selecting only the finest Asscher cut diamonds, ensuring accurate proportions and exceptional brilliance that showcase this cut's beauty.