The Ultimate Guide to Emerald Cut Diamonds: Everything You Need to Know

If you are looking for a diamond that boosts class, sophistication, and elegance, very few can rival the emerald cut diamond. An emerald-cut diamond is primarily an elongated rectangular-shaped diamond. Its clean lines and step-cut design stand out amongst any other diamond shape. 

As the name implies, "Emerald". This diamond cut was mainly developed for Natural Emeralds (the green version of beryls). For its vintage charm and distinct hall of mirrors effect, the emerald cut represents refined taste. 

In this guide, we will break down every aspect of emerald-cut diamonds. This will enable you to make an informed decision when purchasing an emerald cut diamond or considering designing an emerald cut diamond engagement ring. This guide is just perfect for you. So, let's dive right in. 

Understanding Emerald Cut Diamonds

Emerald-cut diamonds are a kind of step-cut diamond with a primarily rectangular shape with 57 facets. Emerald cut diamonds have truncated corners and parallel step-like facets. 

Unlike a brilliant cut that gives more sparkle, the emerald cut emphasizes clarity and a sophisticated glow. 

With its purity in clarity and color, an emerald cut diamond is one of the most favorite diamonds among those who value true uniqueness with a vintage edge.

History of Emerald Cut Diamonds

The cut is primarily designed for emeralds. But this became popular for diamonds, and the cuts were named after the gem’s cut– emerald cut diamond. 

The history of emerald-cut diamonds is over 700 years, dating back to the 14th century. However, the cut got huge popularity during the Art Deco Movement.

The Art Deco Movement was about turning modernism into fashion. It includes luxury items, including jewelry. The main goal was to create an anti-traditional and sleek style that represents sophistication and elegance.

 The Art Deo name comes from Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes. The Art Deco decorative art and architecture was first exhibited in this exco in 1925 in Paris. 

During the 1920s and 1930s, the geometric precision and clean lines of emerald cut diamonds perfectly complemented the bold, architectural style of Art Deco jewelry. This historical association with glamour and elegance has cemented its status as a timeless choice for sophisticated buyers. 

Unique Characteristics of Emerald Cut Diamonds

• Emerald-cut diamonds have 57 separate facets.
• Rectangular diamond shape with cut corners, giving it a sleek and elongated appearance.
• Characterized by large, parallel facets arranged in a step-like pattern. This emphasizes clarity and transparency rather than sparkle.
• Have “hall-of-mirrors” effects created by their step cuts. The optical illusion offers a captivating play of light and dark.  This sets the emerald cut apart from other diamond shapes.
• Focus on "diamond fire" and large, dramatic flashes of light rather than the traditional brilliance seen in round, brilliant cuts.
• It is one of the most historically rich diamond cuts of all diamond cuts.

The Hall of Mirrors Effect in Emerald Cut Diamond

The hall of mirrors effect in an emerald cut diamond refers to the mesmerizing interplay/reflection of light. The light is created by its parallel, long facets. When created, the light shows a series of mirrors reflecting light back and forth within the stone. 

See, the following image shows the light is reflected internally, and then it creates what seems like the diamonds reflecting the light like a mirror. 

Light is reflected internally and creates a shining Hall of Mirrors Effect in emerald cut diamonds.

This unique visual effect appears almost like looking into a hall of mirrors. However, inclusion in the diamond can disrupt the smooth reflection of the light. 

Explanation of How an Emerald Cut Diamond Mimics the Hall of Mirrors Effect

Different aspects of the diamond play their roles in creating the effect. Here is the explanation of how an emerald cut diamond creates this mesmerizing hall of mirrors effects of reflective light. 

#1 Role of Step-Cut Faceting

• As we mentioned earlier, unlike brilliant-cut diamonds (round cut, princess cuts, etc.), emerald cuts have large, rectangular facets. These facets are arranged in a step-like pattern. These parallel facets run along the length of the diamond. 
• This design on the diamond creates wide and open planes. The planes reflect light in a structured and geometric way, resembling a series of parallel mirrors. 

#2 The Infinite Reflection

• When the light enters an emerald-cut diamond, the planes make the light reflect back and forth across the facets. This creates a repeating pattern of reflections. These reflections look like a corridor or "hall of mirrors," especially when viewed from the top.
• Proper symmetry (facet alignment) increases the light effect. 

#3 Role of Play of the Light and Shadows

• The sharp edges and linear patterns of the emerald cut’s facets create a striking contrast between light and shadow. When you tilt the diamond, the light moves along the planes. This creates an effect similar to an endless hall of reflections.
  

Understanding and Evaluating Emerald Cut Diamond with 4Cs

You can evaluate an emerald-cut diamond by understanding its 4Cs. The 4Cs are diamond Cut, Diamond Carat Weight, Diamond Clarity, and Diamond Color.  

Please note that the price of emerald cut diamonds varies based on these factors.

#1 Diamond Cut

From the top to the tip of a diamond, it is all about its cut. The perfect cut of a diamond with great craftsmanship makes it valuable. Otherwise, the diamond can become seriously dull and drab. 

Here, we have explained the anatomy of diamonds and the perfect aspects for the cut grade of emerald cut diamonds. 

• Diamond Table Percentage

The flat and the largest surface of the diamond on the top is called the table. The table is measured with percentage values. For emerald-cut diamonds,  61% to 69% of the table percentage is considered excellent. 

Diamond table is categorized from excellent to poor, and emerald cut is not an exception. The following table shows the table percentage range for emerald cut diamonds. 

• Diamond Pavilion

The pavilion of emerald cut diamonds is the bottom portion of the diamond. It ranges from the girdle to the culet (the base tip). Most of the diamond weight, including emerald cut, lies on the pavilion. 

However, angles created by the diamond’s pavilion main facets and the girdle plane are called pavilion angles. 

A well-crafted diamond creates a great angle, which enhances the diamond’s depth and brilliance. Excellent angle balances its light performance. 

For emerald-cut diamonds, a 45.05-degree angle is considered the best angle. However, 43.3 to 46.8 degrees is the acceptable range. 

• Diamond Crown

The top portion of the diamond above the girdle up to the table line is known as the diamond crown. The crown’s angle affects how light enters the stone. 

The light enters through the crown and is reflected back from the pavilion. And then we see the lighting reflection. Since the pavilion has multiple facets in multiple directions, the light is also reflected in multiple directions. 

An expertly cut crown enhances the emerald cut’s signature elegance and subtle glow. 

• Diamond Girdle

The diamond girdle is the thin edge where the crown meets the pavilion of the diamond. A perfectly cut emerald cut diamond must have a Goldilocks girdle. That means the girdle isn’t too thick or too thin. 

A too thick girdle can put much more weight in the middle of the diamond. Contrarily, a too thin girdle has the risk of chipping. 

A well-proportional girdle is crucial for the structural integrity and visual balance of the diamond. 

An emerald-cut diamond can have a Very Good GIA rating regardless of other aspects. See the following table for what thickness of girdle falls into which category, from excellent to poor. 

• Diamond Culet

The diamond's culet is the pointed lower part of its pavilion. The culet may have a sharp edge or be a little facet that runs parallel to the table. 

“None” of culet size is considered excellent. There are other categories as well. See the table below for the culet category. 

• Diamond Depth Percentage

The entire diamond’s depth is measured from the table to the culet in percentage. This diamond depth percentage is measured as a percentage of the total diameter of the girdle. 

For emerald cut diamonds, 61% to 67% of the depth percentage is considered excellent. The other acceptable percentages are as follows. 

• Length-to-Width Ratio

The length-to-width ratio significantly affects the diamond’s appearance. A ratio between 1.3:1 and 1.5:1 is considered very good to excellent. But with lower ratios, emerald-cut diamonds offer a square-like shape. However, higher ratios provide a more elongated look.

As we mentioned, “the square-shaped emerald cut diamond”- is actually the Asscher cut diamond. GIA defines the Asscher cut as a square-cut emerald. 

The acceptable length-to-width ratios of emerald cut diamonds are as follows for both square and elongated rectangular shoes. 

2. Diamond Carat Weight

Carat weight refers to the weight of the diamond, which directly impacts its size and perceived value. However, emerald-cut diamonds appear larger than other shapes of the same carat weight due to their larger surface area and elongated rectangular design.

• Size Illusion: The flat table and open facets of the emerald cut create the illusion of a bigger diamond compared to round or princess cuts.
• Ideal Carat Weight Range: Common choices for engagement rings fall between 1 and 3 carats, depending on the desired visual impact and budget.

You can go for a smaller carat size as well if you are looking for budget-friendly options. For example, you can purchase a fancy 0.16-carat yellow natural emerald-cut only at $450.

However, lab-grown diamonds also offer incredible value with bigger carat sizes at the same price level as natural-cut diamonds. 

Many say emerald-cut diamonds are more affordable than other cuts. But the price actually depends on many factors.

3. Diamond Color Grading

Emerald cuts reveal more color than brilliant cuts due to their open facets. Diamond color grades are defined as:

• D-F: Colorless and most costly. 
• G-J: Near-colorless. The color is undetectable to amateur eyes. 
• K-M: Faint color. But the color is apparent in larger stones. 
• N-R: Very light color. They are very affordable. 
• S-Z: Light color, which is unpopular but suits classical designs. 

A color grade of G or higher ensures a near-colorless appearance, ideal for emerald cut diamonds. 

The following table will give you an overview of suggested color grades for different carat sizes. 

4. Diamond Clarity

Understanding the clarity of emerald-cut diamonds is crucial. Because diamond inclusions are more visible in their large, open facet. 

Here is a quick overview to clarify grades regarding GIA definitions.

• FL (Flawless): No inclusions or blemishes, even under 10x magnification. Extremely rare and expensive.
• IF (Internally Flawless): No internal inclusions; minor surface blemishes possible. Rare and valuable.
• VVS1 & VVS2 (Very, Very Slightly Included): Tiny inclusions nearly invisible under 10x magnification; excellent near-perfect options.
• VS1 & VS2 (Very Slightly Included): Small inclusions invisible to the naked eye, offering great value.
• SI1 & SI2 (Slightly Included): Visible inclusions under close inspection; affordable but require careful selection.

For overall value for money, we recommend you go for clarity grade VS1 or higher. This ensures eye-cleaning diamonds.

However, here is a quick overview of the excellence of emerald cut diamonds regarding different carat sizes. 

Other Aspects of Emerald Cut Diamond to Evaluate

Aside from the anatomy of an emerald cut diamond, there are some other aspects that are important to consider. They impact the value and quality of emerald cut diamonds. 

Diamond Polish and Symmetry

Diamond polish refers to the smoothness and quality of every facet- which means the overall surface. Polish is achieved during the cutting and finishing process. 

A well-polished diamond has fewer surface irregularities. This allows light to reflect optimally. 

• Emerald cuts have large, open facets, making surface imperfections like scratches, nicks, or abrasions more noticeable.
• Poor polish can hinder light reflection, reducing the "Hall of Mirrors effect" effect—the signature characteristic of emerald cuts.
• A high polish grade (Excellent or Very Good) ensures a sleek and shiny appearance, which is crucial for this elegant cut.

On the other hand, symmetry refers to the alignment and balance of a diamond’s facets. Symmetry ensures that each facet is properly proportioned, evenly shaped, and aligned with other facets. 

Precise symmetry enhances the clean and geometric look of emerald cut diamonds. Misaligned facets can disrupt the light flow. This results in diminishing the diamond's visual appeal and brilliance. 

Emerald cut diamonds rely on step-cut facets rather than sparkles. Perfect symmetry maintains the stone’s sharp lines and sophisticated appearance. 

Certification and Authority of Emerald Cut Diamond

Diamond certification and grading reports by proper authority increase the value of diamonds. Two pioneers in the diamond grading industry are GIA and IGI.

1. GIA Grading Report

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) is the world’s most trusted diamond grading authority. Known for its strict grading standards, GIA is the benchmark for evaluating diamond quality.

The key aspects of GIA reports include:

• Carat Weight: Accurately measured to the hundredth of a carat.
• Color and Clarity Grades: Graded on precise scales, with clarity details highlighting even minor inclusions.
• Cut Quality: While emerald cuts don’t have a cut grade, GIA assesses polish, symmetry, and proportions for overall quality.
• Proportions: Specific measurements of the length-to-width ratio, depth percentage, and diamond table percentage are critical for emerald cuts.
• Laser Inscription: GIA often provides a unique laser inscription on the diamond girdle. This helps to match it to the certification for added security.

The impact of the value of GIA grading for diamonds includes the following: 

• GIA-certified emerald cut diamonds command higher trust and resale value due to the institute’s reputation.
• You can be confident in the diamond’s authenticity and accurate grading when buying diamonds. 
• For emerald cuts, the GIA’s detailed assessment of clarity, proportions, and polish/symmetry ensures buyers get a diamond with optimal diamond brilliance and quality.

A GIA-certified 103.49-carat emerald cut diamond named “Light of Africa” sold in June in the Spring 2022 Auction in New York for over $20 million. The per carat was priced at $195,000.

2. IGI Grading Report

The International Gemological Institute (IGI) is another prominent diamond certification body. The key aspects of IGI diamond grading include:

• Comprehensive Grading: Covers carat weight, color, clarity, and proportions, similar to GIA.
• Certification for Lab-Grown Diamonds: IGI is a leader in certifying lab-grown diamonds, providing detailed insights into their quality.
• Laser Inscription: Like GIA, IGI provides a unique laser inscription on the diamond girdle. 
• The impact of IGI certification on diamonds, including emerald cuts are as follows: 
• While IGI-certified diamonds are typically less expensive than GIA-certified ones, the reports are still reliable. This is especially for lab-grown diamonds.
• If you are looking for cost-effective options, you can consider IGI-certified emerald cut diamonds. This won’t compromise the quality and transparency, though. 
• Also, you can purchase lab-grown diamonds–a larger stone for much cheaper compared to natural ones and with better properties such as color, cut, and clarity.

Diamond Fluorescence in Emerald Cut

The fluorescence refers to the diamond’s reaction to the UV light. It means the intensity of color that glows under exposure to UV light.

25% to 35% of diamonds, including emerald cuts, show some degree of fluorescence. In most cases, medium to strong fluorescence enhances the diamond’s appearance. 

However, excessive fluorescence can make diamonds hazy or oily. But fluorescence doesn’t impact the structural integrity of diamonds. It’s only about the appearance. 

Diamond Brilliance, Fire, and Scintillation

Emerald-cut diamonds differ in brilliance (light return), fire (color dispersion), and scintillation (sparkle) due to their step-cut design. 

• Diamond brilliance in emerald cuts is subtle, offering broad flashes of light rather than intense sparkle. 
• Diamond fire is understated but refined. It enhances its elegance with higher color grades (G or better). 
• Diamond scintillation appears in dramatic, clean patterns rather than rapid twinkling. Choose a well-cut diamond with proper depth (61–67%) and symmetrical facets for the best light performance. 

Lab-Grown vs. Natural Diamonds

Lab-grown diamonds offer ethical diamond sourcing. It is also a cost-effective alternative to mined diamonds. Chemically identical, they allow buyers to afford larger or higher-quality stones without compromising beauty.

Ethical Diamond Sourcing for Natural Diamonds

Choosing responsibly sourced diamonds ensures your purchase supports ethical practices, from mining to distribution. Look for suppliers committed to transparency and conflict-free sourcing.

Emerald Cut Diamonds in Engagement Rings With Popular Styles

Emerald-cut diamonds are incredibly versatile. With this cut, you can have a bunch of engagement ring trends and styles. Their clean lines and step-cut design make them an excellent choice for both understated and bold designs. 

Here, we have listed some of the most popular styles which can surely fulfill your desire. 

1. Three-Stone Engagement Rings

Emerald-cut diamonds shine in three-stone settings, where smaller side stones flank the center diamond, such as tapered baguettes, trapezoid cuts, or even contrasting shapes like pear or round diamonds. These settings amplify the brilliance and offer a metaphorical representation of a couple’s past, present, and future together.

2. Bezel Settings

In the bezel setting, the diamond is fully or partially encased in a thin metal frame. This offers the utmost protection against damage and a sleek, minimalist aesthetic. This style is ideal for active lifestyles or those who prefer modern designs.

3. Halo Settings

The halo setting surrounds the emerald cut diamond with a ring of smaller diamonds. This creates a striking contrast that enhances the diamond’s size and sparkle. This style pairs beautifully with white, yellow, or rose gold bands, offering both vintage charm and modern brilliance.

4. Solitaire Settings

For those who prefer simplicity, solitaire settings allow the emerald cut diamond to take center stage. The clean lines of this cut make it a perfect match for minimalist ring designs.

5. Split Shank Settings

A split shank features a band that divides into two or more strands as it approaches the diamond. This design draws attention to the center stone. With an emerald cut, this setting adds an architectural element, offering a unique yet balanced look.

6. East-West Settings

This modern twist places the emerald cut diamond horizontally rather than vertically, creating a unique and unconventional look. It’s perfect for those who want a modern style that showcases the diamond's long, elegant lines in a fresh way.

7. Vintage-Inspired Settings

Emerald cuts are a natural fit for vintage-inspired engagement rings. Designs featuring milgrain details, filigree work, or intricate engraving highlight the timeless appeal of this cut. This particularly fits in platinum or yellow gold settings reminiscent of the Art Deco era.

Comparing Emerald Cuts to Other Step-Cut Diamonds

Here is a quick comparison of emerald cut diamonds with some other popular cuts. This will help you to identify the basic differences among them and make informed decisions when purchasing your desired emerald cut diamond. 

Final Thoughts

Emerald-cut diamonds represent pure elegance, making them an enduring choice for engagement rings and fine jewelry. By understanding their unique characteristics, anatomy, and the importance of the 4Cs, you can make an informed decision when selecting this sophisticated step-cut diamond.

For those ready to bring their dream emerald-cut diamond piece or engagement ring to life, Saratti offers custom design services. We ensure every detail reflects your vision. From preset diamond rings to bespoke jewelry and more, we are honored to assist you at every step.